Block 6 – Northwind

Standard

Of all of these blocks, this one will be the most challenging. There are no shortcuts in doing this block. My best advice is to be very careful with accuracy.

Cut

Neutral

Two 1 ½” x 14 ½” rectangles

Two 1 ½” x 12 ½” rectangles

Three 4 7/8” x 4 7/8” squares

Ten 2 7/8” x 2 7/8” squares

 

Color 1

One 4 7/8” x 4 7/8” square

Four 2 7/8” x 2 7/8” squares

 

Color 2

Two 2 7/8” x 2 7/8” squares

One 5 3/16” x 5 3/16” square

 

With the exception of the 1 ½” rectangles and the 5 3/16” square, every piece needs to be cut diagonally into equal triangles. The 5 3/16” square needs to be cut diagonally in both directions to create four equal triangles.

NW1

Use two of the neutral triangles cut from the 4 7/8″ squares and the two color 1 triangles cut from the 4 7/8″ square and arrange them as shown below.  Press the seams to the darker fabric.

NW2

Make the second seam, matching the previous seams and your block will look like this.  This is the center unit.

NW3

Mark eight of the 2 7/8″ half square triangle pieces along the 1/4″ seam as shown below.  Use your favorite disappearing marking tool.

NW4

This gives you a reference for placing on the adjoining triangle.  You can see that the seam line matches the slanted edge of the triangle behind it.  Sew this seam and press toward the darker fabric.

NW5

Add another neutral triangle to the other side of the color 2 triangle, making the unit shown below.  Press and trim so the intersection is right at 1/4″ and one of the seams is aligned with the 45 degree mark on your ruler.  This is the first strip unit.  You need to make four (4) of these units.

NW6

To accurately place the first strip units on the center unit fold the center unit in half and press to mark the centers of two sides.

NW7

Place the intersection of the point of the color 2 triangle within the strip unit to one of the center marks you just created.  Sew this seam with a 1/4″ seam allowance and you should sew right through the intersection as shown.

NW9

Repeat the process on the remaining sides.

NW10

On the picture below I have marked the crease to make it easier to see.

NW11

We will now use the four triangles that were cut from the 5 3/16″ square.  Begin by pressing each of the triangles in half to mark the centers.

NW12

Match the crease with the intersection from the center block as shown below.

NW13

Do this on all four sides.  Trim to a 9″ square with the intersections as close to the 1/4″ seam line as possible.

NW14

Using the remaining 2 7/8″ half square triangle pieces (12 neutral, 8 color one) you need to make the second strip units.  These are made using the same method as in the first strip units.  Each of these units will have 3 neutral triangles and 2 triangles from color 1.  Again, you will need four of these units.

Sew the remaining neutral triangles cut from the 4 7/8″ squares onto the short side of these strip units.

NW15

In order to line up the intersections between the strip units and the block I place straight pins in the wrong side of the strip unit exactly on the intersection.

NW16

Then those pins go directly into the intersection on the right side of the block.  Bring the fabric together with the pin standing straight up and pin the fabrics together on both sides of the pin.  Be sure you are pinning on the 1/4″ seam line or your fabrics could still shift.

NW17

Most of the time I don’t do much pinning, but this block definitely requires pinning for accuracy.

NW18

Now, trim your block to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ making sure you don’t cut too close to your points.  No matter how careful I was both of my blocks ended up a little bigger.  Fortunately we still have to add the 1 1/2″ strips.  Just trim 1/4″ away from your points and add the 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strips to the two opposite sides.  Now trim those two pieces so the block is 12 1/2″ x 14 1/2″.  Then add the 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ pieces and trim down to a 14 1/2″ square.  We have used the strips to compensate for us and it won’t be noticed at all.

 

NW19

 

Block 5 – Eight Hands Around

Standard

I hope you are enjoying these blocks!  Remember, trimming each unit before continuing is essential to accurate piecing!

For the Eight Hands Around block you will need to cut the following:

Neutral

Four 3 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles

Two 4″ squares

Four 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles

Four 2″ squares

One 3 1/2″ square

Two 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles

Two 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ rectangles

Color 1

Eight 2″ squares

Color 2

Eight 3 1/2″ squares

Two 4″ squares

EHA1

Again I will show pictures of constructing the first block.  The second block will be the same with the colors reversed.

Begin by making four half square triangle units using the 4″ squares (two neutral, two color 2)

EHA2

Press and trim the units to 3 1/2″

EHA3

Using the 3 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles and the eight 3 1/2″ squares cut from color 2 make four flying geese units.  (You can find the instructions on Block 2 — Summer Winds)

EHA4

EHA5

Press and trim to 3 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ making sure the tip of the triangle is 1/4″ away from the edge.

Make four more flying geese units using the four 2″ x 3 1/2″ neutral rectangles and the 2″ squares from color 2.

Press and trim these to 2″ x 3 1/2″ making sure the tip of the triangle is 1/4″ away from the edge.

EHA6

Using the 3 1/2″ neutral square, the four 2″ neutral squares and the four smaller flying geese units arrange the pieces to make the block shown below.

EHA7

Arrange the remaining units as shown to piece the block.

EHA9

Press and trim the block to 12 1/2″ square.

EHA10

Add the 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ and the 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips to the sides of the block and you will be finished!

EHA11

 

 

 

 

 

 

Block 4 – Joseph’s Coat

Standard

Cut the following for EACH block:

Neutral

Two 3″ x 3″ squares

Four 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares (cut in half diagonally)

Four 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles

One 3 5/16″ x 3 5/16″ square

 

Color 1

Two 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares (cut in half diagonally

Four 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles

Two 4 7/8″ squares (cut in half diagonally)

 

Color 2

Two 3″ x 3″ squares

JC1

In order to cut the 3 5/16″ square position edge of the fabric half way between the 3 1/4″ and 3 3/8″ marks on the ruler.

JC1a

With the 3″ squares make half square triangle units using one of the previous methods.  Cut them apart between the two seams and press toward the dark fabric.  Trim all four units into 2 1/2″ squares, using the 45 degree line on your ruler.

JC2

Add two of the triangles cut from the 2 7/8″ squares to either side of the half square triangle unit as shown below.

JC3

Press and trim so one edge lies along the 45 degree line and the tip of the triangle is on the 3 1/2″ line.

JC4

Place this unit on top of the triangle cut from the 4 7/8″ square and carefully sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

JC5

If unit you made isn’t perfect you can lay it on top of the 4 7/8″ triangle and use that for the guide.  You can see the triangle on the left isn’t exactly right.  I made sure all the points matched and then used the brown triangle as my guide for my 1/4″ seam allowance.

JC5a

Make four units using the 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ pieces as shown below.

JC6

For the center block lay the long edge of two of the triangles cut from the 2 7/8″ squares on either side of the 3 5/16″ neutral square.  Stitch on a 1/4″ seam allowance.

JC7

Press and trim the dog ears.

JC9

Add the last two triangles on the remaining sides.

JC10

Press and trim to 4 1/2″

JC11

Lay the units out as shown below.

JC13

Sew the pieces together and press well.  Trim to 12 1/2″

JC14

Add the 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ pieces to two opposite sides.  Press

Add the 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ pieces to the remaining sides.  Press

Block 3 – Martha Washington’s Star

Standard

Following are the pieces you will need to cut for EACH block:

Neutral

(2) 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ rectangles

(2) 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles

(4) 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares

(4) 3 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles

(2) 4″ x 4″ squares

(1) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square

Color 1

(8) 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares

Color 2

(1) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square

MWS 1

Take the Neutral 4 1/2″ square and the Color 2 4 1/2″ square and lay one on top of the other.  Lay your ruler from corner to corner and cut in half diagonally.  Without moving the fabric pieces, cut between the other two corners to make 4 smaller triangles of each fabric.

MWS 2

Lay one neutral and one color 1 triangle next to each other as shown below.

MWS 3

Sew them together on two of the short edges to make a larger triangle.  Do the same with the remaining triangle pieces.  You should have four pieces that look like the picture below.

MWS 4

Cut the 4″ squares in half diagonally once.  Center the pieced triangle on one of the neutral triangles and stitch together.  Trim to make 3 1/2″ squares with the intersection meeting at the 1 3/4″ mark in both directions.

MWS 5

Sew the four blocks together as shown to make a pinwheel block.

MWS 6

Mark all eight of the  3 1/2″ Color 2 squares from corner to corner.

MWS 7

As with the Block 2 you will make four Flying Geese blocks by laying the 3 1/2″ square at the end of the 3 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle and stitch just outside of the drawn line.  You should be able to see the distance on this picture.

MWS 8

Cut the excess away.

MWS 9

And press.

MWS 10

Repeat this on the other side of the rectangle.  Make four Flying Geese units and lay all the units out as shown below.

MWS 12

Stitch together and press well.

Add the 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ pieces to two opposite sides.  Then add the 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ pieces to the other sides to finish the block.

MWS 13

 

Block 2 – Summer Winds

Standard

For this block you will need to cut the following pieces for each block:

Neutral:

(6) 3″ x 3″ squares

(8) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

(4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles

(2) 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles*

(2) 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ rectangles*

*I cut a piece of neutral 12 1/2″ x WOF and also 14 1/2″ x WOF.  For each block I cut the 1 1/2″ pieces from these strips.

Color 1:

(6) 3″ x 3″ squares

(1) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares

Color 2:

(4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

(4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles

 

SW 1

We are going to make HST (half square triangle) units again.  However, this time I’m not going to draw the pencil line through the center.  With smaller pieces you can just use a piece of painters’ tape instead.  Place a ruler flat against your quarter inch foot and lay a piece of tape along the line formed by the ruler in front of the foot.  This will be your guide.

SW 2

Using the 3″ squares of the neutral and color 1, place one of each square together.  Place one of the corners at the edge of the quarter inch foot and make a seam toward the opposite corner.  Guide the pieces through the machine keeping the front corner on the edge of the tape as shown below.  This will make your first seam.

SW 3

Do the same thing on for the 2nd seam.  Cut the piece into two between the two seams.  Press toward the darker fabric.

SW 5

Trim each unit to 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″.

SW 6

Lay out three of the HST units with one of the 2 1/2″ squares from color 2 as shown below.

SW 7

Sew the units together as shown below.  You will make 4 of these.

SW 8

For the flying geese units you will need to draw the pencil line from corner to corner on the 2 1/2″ neutral squares.

SW 9

Lay one of the 2 1/2″ marked neutral squares at one end of a 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ color 2 rectangles.

SW 10

Typically when you make the flying geese unit using this method you will come up with a unit that is a little smaller than needed.  However, this little tip will give you the correct size unit.  Do NOT stitch directly on the drawn line.  Stitch about 2-3 threads to the outside of the line.  My needle barely touches the line on one side, but it is not directly on the line.

SW 11

Cut off the excess.

SW 12

Press as shown below

SW 13

Repeat on the opposite side.

SW 14

SW 15

Don’t forget to trim this unit to 2 1/2″ by 4 1/2″ being careful that the “v” intersection is right at 1/4″.

 

Assemble the units as shown below.

SW 17

Piece them together.

SW 18

Square up the block to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.

SW 20

Sew the 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strip to opposite sides.  Press and stitch the 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips to the remaining sides and press.

 

 

Block 1 – Yankee Puzzle

Standard

There are truly only 6 blocks in this quilt.  Each block is made twice with opposing colors.  For instance if the center block is color 1 in your first block, it will be color 2 in your second block.  I will be calling the fabrics either neutral, color 1 or color 2.  You can assign these names based on your own fabrics.  The color 1 and color 2 will be the opposite for the second of each of the blocks.  Keeping the colors straight won’t matter too much until we get to the sashing and cornerstones.  Border fabrics will be referred to as Inner border and Outer border.

For the Yankee Puzzle block you will need to cut the following:

Neutral

Two 4″ x WOF strips — subcut into 16 4″ squares.  Save the remainder of the 4″ strip.

One 12 1/2″ x WOF strip — subcut four 1 1/2″ pieces.  Save the remainder of the 12 1/2″ strip.

One 14 1/2″ x WOF strip — subcut four 1 1/2″ pieces.  Save the remainder of the 14 1/2″ strip.

Color 1

One 4″ x WOF strip — subcut into 8 4″ squares.  Save the remainder of the 4″ strip.

Color 2

One 4″ x WOF strip — subcut into 8 4″ squares.  Save the remainder of the 4″ strip.

YP 2

Each of the neutral pieces will be paired with each of the colored pieces to make half square triangles.

To make half square triangles (HST) draw a pencil line from corner to corner using a straight edge.

YP 3

Sew a scant 1/4″ away from both sides of the line.

YP 4

Cut between the two seams

YP 5

Press each unit open with the seam allowance facing the darkest of the two fabrics.

Trim each block to exactly 3 1/2″ square.

YP 6

Arrange the blocks as shown in the picture below

YP 7

After you have the pieces sewn together add the 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ to two opposite sides and the 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ to the remaining sides.

YP 8

Ladies, Start Your Sewing Machines!

Standard

Tomorrow at 8:00 am the first block for the quilt along will be posted.  I plan to have them posted at 8:00am every other Wednesday.

As I have mentioned before each block will be made twice.  If you are doing a two color quilt like I am then each of the blocks will be opposites.  So if the first one is predominantly red with blue accents, the second will be predominantly blue with red accents.

None of the blocks are hard, but they will require some accuracy.  Please do not skip trimming the units before putting them into the blocks.  For half square triangles (HST) I usually make my initial pieces a little larger than needed and then trim them down.  I have found this will typically give me very accurate pieces.  If you are not sure that your seams are 1/4″ I have some tips here:  https://quiltinkaboodle.com/2014/03/02/achieving-the-14-seam/ .

Also, I have worked out the yardage with very little waste.  That means you will be using the strips you cut for the first block in subsequent blocks.  If I cut a 4″ strip and have some leftover I put it in a sandwich bag and label it 4″.  Also, I may have you cut a strip bigger than what you need only to trim it down.  Eventually you will need that bigger size, so don’t trim down the whole strip–cut your pieces off first and then trim them down to the designated size.

I can’t wait to see how yours turn out!  When you finish your blocks each time you can email them to me at lawsonxxxx@gmail.com .  (replace the xxxx with 7616 for the correct email address–trying to avoid more spam.)  When I receive your pictures I will post them on this site.

Please comment below if you don’t understand anything I stated on this post.  If you don’t understand what I mean, I’m sure you won’t be the only one.  Thanks!

 

Tammy